Time stood still in ul. Miernicza
“Bermuda Triangle” is the nickname of a quarter in the east of the city which has a very bad reputation. It roughly consists of the area east of ul. Pułaski, between ul. Traugutta and ul. Kościuszki. Due to its triangular ground plan it received this nickname.
After World War II many settlers (or rather expellees, but this term did not exist in communist Poland) from the East, namely the region around Lviv, were accommodated in the suburb along Oława river. The quarter was poor. Children had nowhere to play, youths had nowhere to go. Violent street crime was frequent, and in those times it was really really dangerous.
Things have changed. I hear from locals that a lot has quietened and it is by far not as bad as it used to be, and that other parts of the city are much worse. New apartment houses have been build that attract different people, new businesses have settled around it, and the crime rate has dropped notably.
Nevertheless it has an uncomfortable feel.
I was alone, hence I just walked ul. Traugutta, and did not venture further in. When I took photos, somebody shouted something at me that I did not understand. So here are a few snapshots from the main street along the northern boundaries of the quarter.
Buildings in this quarter are mostly late 19th century apartment houses, tightly lined up along the streets, a typical poorer residential quarter from the era of industrialization. Since the end of the war, not much has been done in terms of renovation. One street, ul. Miernicza, has gained particular fame as setting for various movies. This street has preserved the appearance from the years around World War II – apart from the many satellite bowls on the facades, which are removed every time a movie is being filmed.
The quarter includes a couple of much older buildings of historical significance. The former summer palace of the bishops is now the seat of the Museum of Ethnography.
At the northwestern end, close to the wide bare grounds of plac Wróblewskiego, two churches frame ul. Traugutta: the small chapel of St Lazarus on the left, the baroque church, convent, pharmacy and hospital of the Bonifratrzy order (Brothers Hospitallers of Saint John of God).
The far side of plac Wróblewskiego is occupied by another church, St Mauritius. Its white baroque facades and elegant steeple do not betray neither that the origins of the church actually date back to the 13th century, nor that the eastern parts are a work of the late 19th century.
Plac Wróblewskiego is a tram hub and I gladly hopped onto the next tram back into the centre…
Plac Wróblewskiego with the church of St Mauritius